How To Get What You Want: KOBA etextiles tailorshop

Hannah Perner-Wilson and Mika Satomi are best known for their epic explorations in DIY etextiles and documentation on www.kobakant.at. Anyone working with etextiles will be familiar with the incredible resource How To Get What You Want.

Their latest project KOBA takes this work one step further and offers an open studio and shop front allowing the public to walk in and commission whatever wearable electronic garment they can dream up! If you are in Berlin, I recommend you pay them a visit.

I started 2018 in style, spending an inspiring week in the KOBA Schneiderei in Kreuzberg. Working alongside Hannah and Mika I drafted the block for my unisex modular jumpsuit collection (more on that later) as well as giving a talk about 'how do we know what we want? making fantasies come true' at their first #Shoptalk event. We collaborated on a prototype jumpsuit (for ..me!) and you can follow the design and evolving documentation here. In the belt are vibration motors which tell me north when activated - by jumping, of course. It also wakes me up by 'purring' if I have been stationary for too long. Watch the video below or check out their blog post to learn more.

You can follow the evolution of the tailorshop and ongoing documentation on the KOBA website. If you want to be inspired and lose yourself in a web of inspiration, I encourage you to follow the multitude of links in this post and explore their work. You won't regret it.

I will be going back to KOBA in March (after we have recovered from fashion week) with my partner in crime Bex to see what wonders have been dreamt up since this visit.. and to make custom jumpsuits for Hannah and Mika.

Anyone familiar with my clothing obsessions will know: jumpsuits are the way of the future. This allusory jumpsuit pattern (and the whole collection) will be open sourced and uploaded as soon as we have: made the different style samples, rubbed our beards thoughtfully, hated them, decided we love them, shot them beautifully, presented them officially and finally, refined the patterns and uploaded the content. No biggie. You can have the patterns for free and will also be able to order them from us. The future will be sexy and utilitarian and have options. We have one month to complete this mission. Watch this space.

a workshop at ACM TEI 2018 - Designing eTextiles for the Body: Shape, Volume & Motion

Call for Participation

Our clothing is not flat, but rather conforms and adapts to our bodies. In this hands-on workshop, participants will experiment and create 3D eTextile garments, while discussing the rich history, current state and possible future directions of wearables.

Through garment construction and rapid prototyping, we will explore how to integrate eTextiles into volumetric, tailored garments that better conform to the shape of the human body, and better respond to its movements. We will show examples of connectors and sensors, and discuss the affordances and limitations of various textiles.

A short masterclass will introduce a range of techniques for garment design and construction, ensuring the workshop is suitable for all skill levels. We will include a brief history of wearables and eTextiles, and an overview of recent innovations within HCI and fashion. We encourage people to bring existing projects and ideas, as well as their own materials and preferred microcontrollers.

See the full call: https://3dtextiles.github.io

On TEI website: https://tei.acm.org/2018/cp-studios/#S2


Call for Position Statements

The studio is open for anyone to join, but we have a limited number of possible participants. We encourage everyone interested in participating to briefly outline their experience with textiles, their research interests and how this workshop will connect to their own research. This will help us to tailor the workshop to the participants and ensure diversity in participant backgrounds.

Please send us an e-mail at 3dtextiles@googlegroups.com

 

The Embodisuit on tour: November at SIGGRAPH Asia

embodisuit_SIGGRAPH_GIF.gif

The Embodisuit is currently travelling the world with Sophia Brueckner, inspiring conversation about our relationship with screens, data and aesthetics in the emerging field of wearables.

It has recently been displayed at Technarte in Los Angeles, HASTAC 2017: The Possible Worlds of Digital Humanities in Florida, The IoT 2017 conference at the ARS Electronica centre in Linz, and is now on display at SIGGRAPH Asia in Bangkok. 

Follow the hashtag #embodisuit on Twitter, Instagram and facebook to find out where it will be travelling next, and stay tuned for new textile interpretations and modular workshops

mi.mu gloves are awarded WEARsustain funding for design development

Mi.mu gloves are awarded WEARsustain European funding for design and manufacture development. Lead by Rachel Freire, the textile development project will run from August 2017 to February 2018, developing the mi.mu gloves textiles and hardware and creating a sustainable process for manufacture.

This exciting grant means we can pursue things close to our hearts, such as sustainable use of materials, ethical business practice and also begin our journey to make a fully supported DIY glove!

Congratulations to eTextile Summercamp alumni NEFFA, Solemaker.io and Kobakant who also received funding. The future will be sustainable!

PIER 9 artist in residence

From February to June 2017 I was an Artist in Residence for the spring cohort at Autodesk's Pier 9 workshop in San Francisco. A diverse group of 23 artists were given 24/7 access to the incredible facilities and facilitators at Pier 9 and the opportunity to work within a vibrant community of artists and makers. Safe to say it was amazing.

My goal was to expand on my work in eTextiles, using this amazing opportunity to experiment, learn and just make art for 4 whole months. I wanted to learn circuit design and Eagle, to mill my own boards, to become proficient in 3D printing, test biodegradable and conductive filaments and temper my hatred of plastic to allow me to explore printing fabric and connectors.. to better understand 3D modelling and scanning, to experiment with the conductive stretch textiles I have been using and find their limits. And of course to prototype DIY eTextile data gloves which could be made with minimal sewing skills. I did all these things and more! I even squeezed in a visit to TEI2017 in Japan to present second skin. Though I didn't learn to use the water jet. But you can't have it all..

I also wanted to focus on the process of documentation for future open-source work. Efficiently documenting and clearly communicating both design and process is a skill in itself (I am inspired by the best) and often neglected in favour of flashy magical publicity images. I'm certainly guilty of this. The residency was my opportunity to spend the time making it a fluid part of my practice. One of the outcomes asked of residents is to make Instructables. This is also one of the reasons I applied. Now I need to make sure I continue this practice with all my work.

You can see my instructables here: http://www.instructables.com/member/rachelfreire/
Work in progress images of my projects can now be found on Flickr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/rachelfreirestudio/albums

I used my time at the Pier as an opportunity to collaborate with the inspiring artists and engineers in my cohort. A snapshot of projects are below:
 

The Embodisuit in collaboration with Sophia Brueckner [instructables: sensor // code // connectors]

 

DIY data gloves in collaboration with Artyom Maxim [video: controlling a Kuka robot with a DIY data glove]

 

Algorithmically articulated leather in collaboration with Pushan Panda:

stretch circuit eTextiles

Second Skin is a project inspired by the bonding research I am doing for mi.mu gloves. This takes the idea one step further, leading to experiments with stretch sensors instead of bend sensors (for the gloves) and exploring bonded stretch circuits using eTextiles and sports/dancewear fabrics. Using bonding processes usually seen in sportswear and lingerie, I have been applying this idea to stretch conductive textiles layered (and isolated) in sheer stretch materials.

Tutorial here, with a list of materials used:
https://www.instructables.com/id/Stretch-Circuit/

The aim is to create an entire garment with interchangeable panels. Using this technique, low profile stretch panels can be used in places where wires would usually be a problem. With the right connectors, a garment like this could be used as a rapid prototyping shell to test circuit configurations on the body.

Thank you to Adafruit for featuring it on #wearablewednesdays:
https://blog.adafruit.com/2016/08/31/how-to-make-a-practical-stretch-circuit-for-your-wearable-tech-wearablewednesday-wearabletech-rachelfreire/

mi.mu gloves in Barcelona at Sonar+D

Last week team mi.mu gloves visited Barcelona to present the gloves at Sonar+D. Chagall performed a full live set of her Stray Flux EP using only her gloves to manipulate her voice and sound and to trigger and loop samples and effects. Everything you hear is performed live. You can watch the recording of the livestream here at La Vanguardia's facebook page

Mi.mu gloves are a wireless wearable technology which allow you to create, manipulate, record and play music using only your hands, changing the dynamic of electronic music from a physically introverted interaction with a computer to one which is more dynamically and expressively connected to the audience. It restores traditional elements of performance to modern electronica, fusing the future of music with essential elements that have made live performance a physically and emotionally engaged art form throughout history. Using a small portable router connected to a laptop running our Glover software and any program which reads MIDI or OSC, you can map any sound to any gesture or posture and manipulate it in real time in a 3D space. Mi.mu stands for 'me'/'my'/'midi' and 'music'. Mi.mu gloves are a completely programmable wearable gestural interface which give the user almost unlimited possibilities as to how they can map their own 3D space to create music through gesture and movement. They are currently made and released in limited runs from our London HQ above Rachel Freire Studio and we are steadily building an international user base as we develop the technology, exploring and mapping this exciting language of gesture.

Chagall's performance also debuted her new interactive visuals, controlled by the gloves. The code was written by mi.mu's Glover author Adam Stark and art directed by the brilliant Eduardo Fitch. All Chagall's clothes for the live show and in the projections are by mi.mu textile designer Rachel Freire. The team had an amazing time sharing our work, both live at the venue and the 60k and counting viewers of the livestream video. Huge thanks to Sonar+D for brilliant documentation and tech support and a really great show. Learn more about mi.mu gloves here.

L-R Rachel Freire, Adam Stark, Chagall Van Den Berg, Eduardo Fitch From sold out popstar arena tours to TED talks at CERN, exploring their potential to make music more accessible to those with disabilities, encouraging hackers to break down barriers in modern technology and developing the gloves for market in an ethical, affordable and transparent way, mi.mu gloves are an infinitely fascinating project we want to share with as many people as possible. This summer we will be announcing a residency for those who want to get their hands in a pair of gloves and add to our growing community of users, makers and hackers. Follow mi.mu gloves on social media   TWITTER   |   FACEBOOK   |   INSTAGRAM   |   YOUTUBE

L-R Rachel Freire, Adam Stark, Chagall Van Den Berg, Eduardo Fitch

From sold out popstar arena tours to TED talks at CERN, exploring their potential to make music more accessible to those with disabilities, encouraging hackers to break down barriers in modern technology and developing the gloves for market in an ethical, affordable and transparent way, mi.mu gloves are an infinitely fascinating project we want to share with as many people as possible. This summer we will be announcing a residency for those who want to get their hands in a pair of gloves and add to our growing community of users, makers and hackers.

Follow mi.mu gloves on social media   TWITTER   |   FACEBOOK   |   INSTAGRAM   |   YOUTUBE

MACHETE

Epic image of the year so far goes to Amanda Palmer, wearing Rachel Freire on the cover of her new single Machete. The gown is one of two showpiece couture gowns from SS11 remade from WWII parachutes. The collection is titled 'the girl I never was' and this is EXACTLY how it is meant to be worn.
Photo by the brilliant photographer and film maker Allan Amato. There's an wonderful story behind this beautiful image, you can read it here and listen to Machete on Amanda's blog: http://amandapalmer.net/machete/

AGxRF: ALEXANDRA GROOVER x RACHEL FREIRE AW16 USING PIÑATEX

AGxRF: ALEXANDRA GROOVER x RACHEL FREIRE AW16 USING PIÑATEX

Rachel Freire and Alexandra Groover launch their new accessories collaboration at Paris Fashion Week AW16. AGxRF is designed to compliment Alexandra's timeless flowing robes which are 100% zero waste as well as sustainably and locally sourced and manufactured.
The collection uses the innovative and sustainable new material Piñatex alongside remade leather items with nearly all styles offered in a leather or vegan option.

AGxRF will be available for buyers and press alongside Alexandra Groover black label ANCESTRAL collection in Paris 3-9th March. More information after the cut

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